CARTIER. - Lot 149

CARTIER. No. 5717 / 12305 / 5717. Circa 1915. Brooch-watch in platinum, onyx and old-cut diamonds with its barrette brooch. Case: elongated oval, platinum, the reverse with three diamonds on an onyx plate background, surrounded by a line of diamonds, four diamonds on the upper part of the clasp, the whole linked to a brooch-set with a chalcedony platelet surrounded by stylized diamonds, the inside of the bezel numbered "5717 12305", the case middle holding the movement numbered "12305", the inside of the case middle "5717 12305". Dial: silvered with stylized blued steel hands, Roman numerals and railway minute track, signed "Cartier Paris". Movement: hand-wound mechanical, Côtes de Genève decoration, 8 adjustments, 19 jewels, signed "Cartier Paris". Case dimensions: 35 x 15 mm. Overall dimensions: 8 x 3.5 cm. Gross weight: 27.2 g. Note: This brooch-watch, preserved by family descendants, is an emblematic example of the 1910s production period, a particularly fascinating decade in the history of the House of Cartier, a true pioneer of modern watchmaking. It was precisely during this period that Louis Cartier revolutionized men's watchmaking, creating the first true wristwatch in history, the "Santos" in 1904 for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, then developing iconic models such as the Tank, inspired by the tanks of the First World War and launched in 1917. The company also refined its enduring aesthetic codes: geometric lines, Roman numerals and stylized hands in blued steel. Movements were mainly supplied by Swiss manufacturers, notably Jaeger calibers, with whom Cartier had enjoyed a privileged relationship since 1903. This period marked a particular refinement in Cartier's decorative art. Brooch-watches from the 1910s like our example perfectly illustrate the transition between the Belle Époque and the nascent Art Deco. These exceptional pieces, like our example, combined watchmaking and jewelry in creations where black onyx, Cartier's material of choice, combined harmoniously with diamonds to create striking contrasts. Onyx gave these jewelry-watches a sober, modern elegance, characteristic of and heralding the Art Deco style, while diamonds accentuated their brilliance. These brooch-watches illustrate the evolution of aesthetic codes, marking a gradual transition from the curved, floral lines of Art Nouveau to more refined geometries. Cartier demonstrated exceptional mastery in the creation of pieces that were both functional and ornamental, aimed at a demanding female clientele. This period also corresponds to the apogee of Parisian haute joaillerie, during which Cartier competed with the most prestigious houses on Place Vendôme. Expert: Geoffroy ADER